Noon Recitals at Rockefeller University

As I noted in a tweet @arttravelsavvy on Dec. 16th, I found a hidden gem when I attended a noon recital at Rockefeller University yesterday. I was invited by a friend, who graduated from Juilliard, to join her for the concert in Caspary Auditorium.

You don't have to make a reservation or buy a ticket. The concerts are free but a donation to the university is appreciated. The program is announced the week of the recital and you can call the hotline listed below a couple of days in advance to find out the program details.

The official title of the concerts is Tri-I Noon Recitals because they are presented by three organizations: New York-Presbyterian/Weill Medical College of Cornell University, Rockefeller University, Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center & Hospital for Special Surgery. The concert series was founded in 1986 by the late Alexander Mauro, who was a professor of biophysics at Rockefeller.

The recital yesterday featured the Horszowski Trio, which is comprised of the two-time Grammy nominee, violinist Jesse Mills; the founding cellist of the Daedalus Quartet, Ramen Ramakrishnan; and, the pianist Rieko Aizawa. They were fabulous. The program: Beethoven Trio in D Major, Op. 70, Nr. 1 ("Ghost" Trio) and Dvorak Trio in f minor, Op. 65.

The next recital will be January 6, 2012.

Tri-I Noon Recitals
Rockefeller University
Caspary Auditorium
1230 York Ave. at 66th St.
Recital Hotline: 1-212-327-7007

follow me on Twitter @arttravelsavvy

Aspen Dining: L'Hostaria Ristorante

Last week, I spent a few days in Aspen and had dinner at a fun Italian restaurant called L’Hostaria Ristorante. It had been recommended to me by my hotel and it was the perfect spot. I sat at the bar rather than in the dining room since I was dining alone and wanted a relaxed atmosphere. I had the option of ordering from the bar menu or the dining room menu. I selected the Tagliatelle ai Gamberi e Pomodoro, homemade fettuccine with sautéed shrimp in a light tomato sauce, from the bar menu and it was superb. I would not recommend the Chianti by the glass, but the Pinot Noir was good. I had an interesting chat with some Aspenites who were seated next to me while a cool three-piece band played in the background. If you go, be sure to arrive by 7 p.m. because it’s very popular with locals and tourists and sit in the bar area if you want a lively, but loud, scene.

L’Hostaria Ristorante

620 E. Hyman Ave.

Aspen, CO 81611

http://www.hostaria.com/

970-925-9022

Live music every Tuesday night

Dining in the Hudson Valley

Hudson House River Inn

I was looking for a special place on Thanksgiving and after reading some favorable reviews, I decided to try the Hudson House River Inn in Cold Spring, New York. They were able to accommodate my last minute reservation in the Tavern Room. The quality and service exceeded my expectations and I will return soon. I am still thinking about the divine bourbon sweet potato mash and butternut squash soup. Bravo to Chef John Guererro and his team!

The 1832 landmark building is within walking distance of the train station. If you stay overnight at the inn, be sure to request a river view room or suite.

Hudson House River Inn

2 Main St.

Cold Spring, NY 10516

http://www.hudsonhouseinn.com/

845-265-9355

What CNN didn't see at Zuccotti Park: Mark di Suvero's "Joie de Vivre"

I watched a segment on CNN yesterday about the eviction of the Occupy Wall Street protesters from Zuccotti Park. The video footage was shot from a helicopter overhead, which showed the empty park surrounded by barricades with protestors gathered around the perimeter. The economist Jeffrey Sachs was commenting on voiceover about the OWS movement marking change in America. No one mentioned the park’s 70-foot-tall sculpture, Joie de Vivre, by Mark di Suvero that was repeatedly shown in the footage. The CNN video was shot before the protesters were allowed to return to the park.

There is a fascinating story to be told which the major news organizations have egregiously overlooked. This monumental red steel work was created by an artist who lives in New York City and opposed the wars in Vietnam and Iraq. Think of di Suvero’s sculptures which directly addressed the two wars, Peace Tower and Mother Peace. Joie de Vivre was installed at the corner of Broadway and Cedar Street in 1996. di Suvero is married to Kate Levin, who is Mayor Bloomberg’s Commissioner of the Department of Cultural Affairs. On November 7, 2011, the OWS Arts and Culture Group sent a letter to di Suvero asking him to urge the city to remove barricades around the work that had been set up after one of the protesters climbed on the sculpture.

I was struck by the fact that there has been a paucity of discourse on the metaphorical role of a sculpture that was made by an antiwar protester and inadvertently situated in the middle of the OWS camp. The protesters and media will eventually move on but Joie de Vivre will remain in Zuccotti Park as a silent, powerful and resilient presence.

Watch the November 15, 2011 video clip on http://www.cnn.com/:

“Sachs: OWS movement marks change”

Hudson River Valley Getaway



Lover's Leap overlooking the Hudson River at Buttermilk Falls Inn & Spa

While I was enjoying the fall foliage this past weekend in the Hudson River Valley, I found a gem of a spot called the Buttermilk Falls Inn & Spa in Milton, NY. I had heard about the inn’s restaurant, Henry’s Farm to Table, but had not visited the property.

Henry's Restaurant

I took the morning train from Grand Central to Poughkeepsie and then a 15-minute cab ride across the Mid-Hudson Bridge to Milton. I had called Henry’s in advance for a lunch reservation and I was seated at a window table overlooking Swan Pond. The chef utilizes organic produce from Millstone Farm, which is located onsite. I ordered the fresh grilled vegetable wrap greens with Fontina cheese. The service was very slow because Henry’s was short on staff. I heard my server apologize to guests at a nearby table that only two chefs were in the kitchen. But the dining room did not have enough wait staff, either. It took an inordinate amount of time for my glass of wine to be served. My veggie wrap tasted fresh and light. For dessert, I ordered the apple crisp, but I was later informed that it was not available and so I selected the poached pear with a scoop of ginger and cinnamon ice cream. The pear was uninspiring but the ice cream was worth the calories.

Buttermilk Falls Inn

After lunch, I walked over to the inn to pick up a map of the property. The inn was built in 1764 and includes 10 guest rooms. Additional accommodations include four guesthouses and a former barn. A private party had booked the entire property for that evening which precluded me from viewing any of the rooms.

View from the inn's patio overlooking South Pond and the Hudson River

I began my stroll of the 75-acre estate from the inn’s patio, which had an exquisite view towards the Hudson River. It looked like an autumnal painting. I followed the path towards the river to Lover’s Leap, where I observed a couple of lovers enjoying the serene view from their Adirondack chairs. I then stopped by the tennis court before heading to Swan Pond.

A new friend

Organic Garden and Barn

I crossed the bridge over the pond to Millstone Farm, which encompasses the organic garden, barn, beehives, llamas, Angora goats, alpacas, peacocks and chickens.

The Spa

I then walked over to the Spa, which was taking advantage of the fall harvest of herbs by incorporating them into handmade oils in signature treatments. I was given a brief tour of the pool, which had a delightful view overlooking the garden.

The beauty and serenity of the property, the indulgent spa treatments and charming variety of accommodations entice me to return as an overnight guest. But the restaurant needs to raise the level of service if they want to have repeat business. 

http://www.buttermilkfallsinn.com/
845-795-1310

Jean Nouvel & Jane's Carousel in Brooklyn, NY



Jane's Carousel in Jean Nouvel's Pavilion

In December, 1999, I visited the Cartier Foundation for Contemporary Art in Paris with my Dad. I distinctly remember the striking transparency and lightness of the Jean Nouvel-designed building. His “glazed barrier” of glass dissolved the delineation of the interior and exterior spaces. 

I read an article in The New York Times in September, 2011 about the opening of Jane’s Carousel in Brooklyn Bridge Park and Nouvel, a Pritzker Prize winner, had been commissioned to design a $9 million transparent pavilion to house the carousel. It was originally made in 1922 by the Philadelphia Toboggan Company and installed in a theme park in Youngstown, Ohio.



Looking into the pavilion

The carousel was purchased at an auction in 1984 by David and Jane Walentas for $385,000. David was the original developer of the Dumbo area of Brooklyn and Jane, who is an artist, began the restoration of the carousel soon after they bought it. The original idea was to include the carousel in a marina and shopping complex along the waterfront between the Brooklyn and Manhattan bridges. The plan was later abandoned and a park was created instead. Once the Walentases received political support for the park, they hired Nouvel. The carousel is their gift to the city. 

My initial view of Nouvel's pavilion in the park

My first impression of the structure was its dramatic location along the East River. From a distance, it looked like the carousel was in a glass-enclosed box. However, as I got closer to the pavilion, I could tell that the walls were made of acrylic instead of glass. Nouvel wanted to create a slight distortion as you look in and out. The acrylic panels cost over $1 million.

Looking out of the pavilion at Brooklyn Bridge

The Walentases originally asked Nouvel to design a round building, but the architect said that it would not look appropriate on that site and he wanted a square shape instead with each wall 72 feet long and a ceiling height of 26 feet. Nouvel considers the carousel to be a bijou in the middle of the box. This jewel is in stark contrast to the surrounding warehouses and bridges. 

On the carousel

The carousel itself is quite beautiful. It is a 3-row machine with 48 carved horses and two chariots. The scenery panels, crests, center pole and platform are original. Each ride is only $2 and I couldn’t resist going three times. The adults seemed to enjoy it as much as the children. Being in motion on the carousel while looking out through the acrylic walls at the bridges and buildings was a bit surreal but great fun. Because the weather was warm, the side of the pavilion facing the park was completely open and thus there was no barrier between indoor and outdoor space. At night, images of horses are projected against white shades within the pavilion to give the effect of a magic lantern.

http://www.janescarousel.com/

Must-see New York Contemporary Art Shows: Fall 2011

Please note that the following exhibitions are listed by closing dates.

Andreas Gursky
Gagosian Gallery
522 W. 21st St.
http://www.gagosian.com/

on view through December 17, 2011

Barnett Newman: Paintings
Craig F. Starr Gallery
5 E. 73rd St.
http://www.starr-art.com/
on view through December 17, 2011

Calder:1941

The Pace Gallery

32 E. 57^th St.

http://www.thepacegallery.com/

on view through December 23, 2011

Howard Hodgkin
Gagosian Gallery
980 Madison Ave.
http://www.gagosian.com/
on view through December 23, 2011

Joan Mitchell: The Last Paintings
Cheim & Read
547 W. 25th St.
http://www.cheimread.com/
on view through January 4, 2012

de Kooning: A Retrospective

The Museum of Modern Art

11 W. 53^rd St.

http://www.moma.org/

on view through January 9, 2012

Carsten Holler: Experience
New Museum
235 Bowery
http://www.newmuseum.org/
on view through January 15, 2012

Maurizio Cattelan: All
Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum
1071 Fifth Ave. (at 89th St.)
http://www.guggenheim.org/
on view through January 22, 2012

Ray Parker: Simple Paintings from the 1960s
Washburn Gallery
20 W. 57th St.
http://www.washburngallery.com/
on view through January 28, 2012

What is "Contemporary" in Boston? Sportello & ICA

Begin your afternoon in Boston with lunch at Sportello, which is chef Barbara Lynch’s concept of “a modern interpretation of the classic diner.” She is a James Beard-award winner and native Bostonian who adroitly executes a cool minimalism in her menu and restaurant design. Sportello opened in Fall 2008 in the Fort Point neighborhood. On a recent Sunday, I ordered the shrimp and avocado salad with endive, grapefruit and tarragon ($12) with a glass of freshly squeezed OJ. My friend enjoyed the cheddar cheese panini with tomato confit and bacon ($13). Don’t miss the irresistible goodies at the bakery counter!

View of ICA from harbor

Walk off your lunch with a 10-minute stroll to the Institute of Contemporary Art/Boston, which is located in the revitalized waterfront area. The five-year-old museum was designed by Diller Scofidio & Renfro, the team that also designed the High Line in NYC.

Grandstand under cantilever

View of harbor from grandstand

The exterior of the building is best viewed from the side that faces the harbor with the dramatic cantilever that extends over the grandstand with public seating. You will most likely approach the museum from the parking lot/street and this view of the building is truly unremarkable. When I visited recently, I walked around the perimeter of the building before going inside, and considering the building from a 360-degree perspective, it was architecturally disappointing. I thought of Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim Bilbao museum and how the building reveals something new from every exterior angle. The ICA does not remotely compare to Bilbao in this respect.

Please note that since interior photography of the museum is not permitted, I can only include photos from the exterior of the building.

The Water Café on the ground floor has a sleek, modern design. But the bookstore behind the admission desk gives the impression of a design afterthought.

Once you have your admission ticket, take the 140-square-foot elevator to the fourth floor, which is the only floor with galleries. The theater occupies the second and third floors. On my recent visit, a portion of the fourth floor was closed because of an installation, which further reduced the art viewing options, and a memorial service was scheduled that afternoon in the theater. I was informed that I could bring my ticket back in October for free admission once the new show opened. 

The two distinctive architectural spaces on the fourth floor are the Mediatheque and the Founders' Gallery.

The Mediatheque under the cantilever

The Mediatheque is suspended from under the cantilever and provides a vertiginous view of the water. The architects used the concept of a viewfinder in framing this perspective of the water. There are a number of computer stations for accessing information about the museum, artists and exhibitions. But it is the combination of the dramatic view and the extreme verticality of the space that makes the Mediatheque a sensational experience.

The Founders' Gallery

The north end of the fourth floor features the Founders' Gallery, which spans the width of the building, and the floor-to-ceiling windows face the harbor. The Gallery is essentially a corridor which connects two galleries but does not display any art. Be sure to walk the length of the Gallery and take a few minutes to sit and enjoy the view.

Eva Hesse: Studiowork is a gem of an exhibition. Hesse was an important American sculptor who died in 1970 at the age of 34. The show features experimental and rarely exhibited works which bring to light the range of unusual materials and techniques that she used. The show is on view through October 10, 2011.

Sportello

348 Congress St.

Boston, MA 02210

Tel: 1.617.737.1234

http://www.sportelloboston.com/

The Institute of Contemporary Art/Boston

100 Northern Ave.

Boston, MA 02210

Tel: 1.617.478.3100

http://www.icaboston.org/

High Line Art: Sarah Sze

The High Line

A must-see installation this summer is Sarah Sze’s sculpture, Still Life with Landscape (Model for a Habitat), on the High Line’s newly opened Section 2, which extends from West 20^th to West 30^th Streets in Manhattan. Sze’s piece is between West 20^th and West 21^st Streets. Constructed in stainless steel, wood, paint and concrete, the work features birdhouses suspended along its metallic web. The viewer interacts with the sculpture by walking between the two pieces which line each side of the elevated walkway. This avian housing project provides food, shelter and water for birds, butterflies and insects and is a clever architectural experiment in synthesizing our habitat with nature.

North-facing view

When you face north on the High Line, take note of how the piece on your  right (east side of the path) interacts with the vertical landscape behind it. Sze’s work draws your eye up to the roof life of the brick building that serves as a backdrop. The birdhouses echo the shapes of the building’s turrets.

South-facing view

The other half of the piece that is best viewed when you face south (west side of the walkway) lacks the dynamic engagement that you see on the other side, but nevertheless provides the essential complement to it.



Detail of sculpture

Be sure to look closely for signs of wildlife as I saw several birds on the sculpture and observe how the human visitors engage with this fascinating work. One viewer commented that the birdhouses were the new rental apartments for this volatile economy.

Still Life with Landscape (Model for a Habitat)

on view through June, 2012

http://www.thehighline.org/ 

Kayaking on Long Island, NY

Peconic River

Kayaking in Oyster Bay last weekend was the catalyst for me to investigate other kayaking options on Long Island. I had not explored the Peconic River, which is the largest river on Long Island. It flows eastward through forests and farms and eventually empties into Peconic Bay, which encompasses the two bays between the North Fork and South Fork of Long Island. The town of Riverhead seemed to be the place to launch the kayak and so I looked for an outfitter in that area. I found Peconic Paddler, which rents kayaks, canoes and stand-up paddleboards.

On Saturday morning, I jumped on the train at Penn Station and headed out east. A little over two hours later, I was in Riverhead and it was a short walk from the train station to Peconic Paddler.

Peconic Paddler

I was assigned a yellow, sit-in kayak that had been stored outdoors the previous night and was full of bugs crawling all over the seat. The staff quickly washed them off and pulled the kayak on a dolly across the street to the launch site. After I secured my backpack in the kayak’s storage compartment, I found more bugs and flipped the kayak over to shake the last of the critters out of there. I then climbed into the cockpit and began the paddle up the river. I had been given a map of the river by the outfitter and was advised that for a two-hour trip, I should explore the bird sanctuary or paddle up to the beach that was past the Indian Island Golf Course.

Within minutes of paddling, I fell into a state of temporary quietude that I desperately needed after having survived a nightmare week of stock market volatility. 

As I paddled eastward, the river broadened and I passed a small marina and a few modest homes. The shoreline was mostly covered in phragmites, a large, perennial grass found in wetlands. I paddled by swans, geese, ducks and a dead crab.

I saw a couple of fellow kayakers turn into the bird sanctuary, but I kept going up the river towards the bay. I paddled under the Route 105 bridge and maneuvered around Osprey Island. The serenity of being on the river was interrupted only by an occasional airplane or jetski. As the beach on the north shore came into view, I decided that it was a good point to turn around and head back to town for lunch.

Jerry & the Mermaid

Jim Dreeben, the owner of Peconic Paddler, recommended Jerry & the Mermaid, a seafood restaurant that was within walking distance in the Treasure Cove Marina. I sat on the patio and ordered a strawberry daiquiri and the seafood stuffed crepe with a Newburg sauce. The crepe was delicious. 

Atlantis Marine World

Gray Seal

On my way back to the train station, I came across Atlantis Marine World, which had a mildly entertaining exhibit of gray and harbor seals in front of the entrance.

The train ride home felt like a whiplash back into cacophony. I was surrounded by passengers who had spent the day at the North Fork Craft Beer Festival and continued the party onboard.

Carving of a captain by the river

Peconic Paddler

tel: 1.631.727.9895

http://www.peconicpaddler.com/

Jerry & the Mermaid

tel: 1.631.727.8489

http://www.jerryandthemermaid.com/

Sailing in Oyster Bay, NY

The Christeen

Are you searching for an unusual, educational and nautical excursion that your entire family can enjoy?  A fun, two-hour outing on The Christeen, a 40-foot gaff rigged sloop docked in Oyster Bay on Long Island, would be a perfect idea! She is the oldest oyster sloop in North America and a National Historic Landmark. The boat was built in 1883 and was restored by a group of volunteers in Oyster Bay before being re-launched in 1999. The Christeen now functions primarily as a floating classroom and once a month on Sunday afternoons from May through September, the WaterFront Center offers public marine education sails in Oyster Bay.

I was originally interested in going kayaking on Long Island for the day and so I looked up outfitters that offered kayak rentals. The Oyster Bay area intrigued me because of its history. I went to the WaterFront Center’s website and read about their kayak rentals and public sails on the Christeen. I thought that it would be a superb day trip from Manhattan because it was only an hour and 20-minute train ride.

Last Sunday, I jumped on the 10:25 a.m. train out of Penn Station, transferred at Jamaica, and arrived at Oyster Bay at 11:45 a.m. A car was not necessary as the harbor was located across the train tracks and the town’s main street was a couple of blocks away. It was an ideal day to go sailing on the bay and so when I checked-in at the WaterFront Center, I asked if I could sign up to go on the Christeen’s 1 p.m. sail instead of going kayaking. Space was still available on the boat, which could accommodate up to 24 passengers and by noon, 18 others had signed up.

I was advised to be at the dock 10 minutes ahead of time. However, the Captain was not around and the small boat that would take the group out to the Christeen was not at the dock. I debated whether I should take a quick paddle in the bay because there was no evidence that a sail was imminent. Eventually, the small boat arrived and families started to show up. The Captain apologized for being late. Once we boarded the sloop, we had to wait for one of the crewmembers to join us because he was finishing a sailing lesson. About 15 minutes later, everyone was on board and the passengers were split into two groups, one on the port side and the other on the starboard side. Each group alternated in pulling back the rope to hoist the sails and once they were secured, we were on our way.

When Oyster Bay was discovered in 1653 by settlers from Massachusetts, the Dutch government in New Amsterdam and the English Colonial government in Hartford were each claiming jurisdiction over the village. During the Revolutionary War, Oyster Bay was the headquarters for British lieutenant colonel John Graves Simcoe, who was a close friend of Benedict Arnold’s British contact, Major John Andre.

Sailboat in Oyster Bay harbor

As we sailed out into the bay, the Captain pointed out the boathouse of Sagamore Hill. He said that the main house on the property was not visible from the water. Sagamore Hill was the home of President Theodore Roosevelt until his death in 1919. The house was the “summer White House” during his administration, 1901-1909. The 1885 house features trophies, furniture and other memorabilia. Guided tours of the house are given daily from Memorial Day through Labor Day.

As we sailed around a bend in the bay, the Captain and crew pointed out a magnificent home up on a hill with a boathouse that was of considerable size as well. The property belongs to Billy Joel. Two former houses of his were nearby and were also visible from the boat.



Learning about marine life



Even though it was difficult to draw the group’s collective attention away from the beautiful scenery, residences and sailboats, the marine educator on board opened up a touch tank that was full of local marine organisms and gave a presentation about the diverse marine life in Oyster Bay. The children loved to hold the sea star and crabs.  The educator talked about oyster farming, aquaculture techniques and the Oyster Bay estuary, which is a designated National Wildlife Refuge. The WaterFront Center offers a wide range of learning opportunities for children, including school field trips, in-school programs, marine discovery and junior sailing programs.

Canterbury's on Audrey Avenue

While we were on our way back to the harbor, I asked the crew for a seafood restaurant recommendation in town. Canterbury’s Oyster Bar & Grill was only a few blocks away on Audrey Avenue (main street) and the WaterFront Center’s office provided a discount coupon that I could use for lunch or dinner. The Maryland claw crab cakes with a side of fries were delicious. Throughout the restaurant, there was a collection of memorabilia on display which highlighted the Roosevelt era, turn-of-the-century Oyster Bay and work by the painter Mort Kunstler, who is considered to be a renowned historical American artist.

When I finished my late lunch/early dinner, I strolled around the village before returning to the train station for the ride back to Manhattan. I look forward to a return visit so that I can explore the area in a kayak, but if it is another perfect day for sailing, the Christeen might be irresistible.

The WaterFront Center

 http://www.thewaterfrontcenter.org/

tel: 1.516.922.SAIL

Sagamore Hill National Historic Site

www.nps.gov/sahi

tel: 1.516.922.4788

Canterbury’s Oyster Bar & Grill

http://www.canterburyalesrestaurant.com/

tel: 1.516.922.3614

Adirondacks Getaway: Great Camp Sagamore, the Vanderbilt Family's Gilded Age Retreat



Great Camp Sagamore

I was in need of a rustic break from summer in the city. When Mum phoned recently to tell me about an article that she had just read about Great Camp Sagamore, I was intrigued. When she told me that it was open to the public and I could stay overnight at the property, I knew that I had to look into a possible visit. Eager to explore the Adirondacks in upstate New York and go to “camp,” I decided to book a weekend stay.

On a recent Friday morning, I jumped on an Amtrak train at Penn Station for the two-and-a-half hour ride to Albany. I rented a black Kia car from Enterprise at the train station and then started the two-and-a-half hour drive to Raquette Lake. When the Vanderbilts acquired Sagamore in 1901, it took 30 hours to travel from Manhattan to camp, which was six times as long as the modern day journey. On my way north on I-87, I stopped for ice cream at Saratoga Springs, where I plan to return in August during racing and polo season. I continued up I-87 to the Warrensburg/Route 9 exit. The Sagamore team had advised me ahead of time that I would not have cell phone reception at camp and to fill up my gas tank before heading into the mountains. So, I made a few calls and then started the final leg of the drive. Once through Warrensburg, I turned onto Route 28, which would take me to Sagamore. When I arrived at Blue Mountain Lake, which is about 24 miles from camp, I saw the sign for the Adirondack Museum and made a note to stop there on my way back to Albany on Sunday if time permitted. At Raquette Lake, I turned left onto a four-mile dirt road, which was the entrance to the Sagamore camp. As I drove through the forest, I completely forgot about my city life. A few minutes later, I reached the first of two bridges and imagined what it must have been like for the Vanderbilts and their guests to have traveled this same road by horse and carriage. When I arrived at the second bridge, I opened a gate and proceeded to drive slowly into camp.



Camp's Entrance

After parking the car, I walked down the hill to check-in and passed the bowling alley, playhouse and tennis court. The front office informed me that dinner would be at 6:30pm on Friday evening and 6pm on Saturday. I would hear the bell when it was time to walk over to the dining hall. I signed a waiver so that I could go kayaking. If I wanted to have wine with my dinner, I would have to purchase it at the front office. I then looked at the one-page wine list and selected a bottle of Bordeaux. I was assigned a room on the second floor of the main lodge. I was informed that there were no room keys or TVs at Sagamore. Linens were provided, but I had to make the bed and return the linens on Sunday. I also had to share a bathroom and so I brought my own hair dryer, robe and even a bar of soap.



Guest Room in Main Lodge



I arrived before most of the other weekend guests and so the main lodge was rather quiet when I brought my luggage upstairs to my room. The doors to the vacant rooms were open and I found Room #5 with my name taped to the door. It was adjacent to the original master bedroom and across from two rooms that faced the lake. I took a quick shower and then searched for an electrical outlet in my room. I found an extension cord under the bed and pulled it out so that I could plug in my hair dryer.  I left the hair dryer’s power on low as I did not want to blow a fuse and risk losing power in the building (I have had some unfortunate experiences with electricity in old buildings in the past). Before I left my room, I heard families arriving and soon the sound of footsteps could be heard throughout the building.

Boathouse

I then strolled over to the boathouse because I was looking forward to kayaking on the 12-square-mile Sagamore Lake on Saturday. No one was around and I saw a few canoes and a kayak. When I heard the bell, I knew that it was the talisman for dinner. It was the first opportunity for me to interact with my fellow campers. Today, the camp can accommodate up to 72 guests but during the Vanderbilt era, there would be up to 20 guests. I met a group of ladies who had been at camp since Wednesday for a digital photography retreat. As I had expected, most of the guests were families or couples from the Northeast region. After a pasta dinner served buffet-style, I attended Orientation, which began at the boathouse and then was followed by an introduction to Sagamore by Jeff Flagg in the playhouse.

When I returned to my room, I had to push an old-fashioned button in the wall instead of flipping a light switch. It was an odd feeling not being able to use my cell phone, but I did not miss it for a couple of days. There was a WiFi signal in the lounge of the main lodge and a guest computer in the conference building, but I chose to disconnect from modern technology while at camp.



View from Guest Room



I was awakened the next morning by the 8am breakfast bell, which served as my camp alarm clock. I heard guests in the hallway and fortunately no one opened my door since it did not have a lock. I had heard stories about guests being caught in awkward moments in their rooms when someone had unexpectedly opened the door. After having scrambled eggs and oatmeal, I read for a while on the dock and then walked to the chalet in the upper complex to take the 10am tour. Jeff was our guide and he demonstrated an encyclopedic knowledge of the property during his two-hour tour.

William West Durant was an Adirondack developer and self-taught architect whose father, Thomas Clark Durant, was the General Manager of the Union Pacific Railroad. Durant Sr. bought almost one million acres of land in the Adirondacks at 6 cents per acre in order to secure railroad rights. William was brought in to develop the land. The concept of a Great Camp entailed a remote, private, self-sustaining estate of buildings with separate functions and made of indigenous materials for a single family and their guests. It was also the origin of modern recreation. The idea of vacating to one’s Adirondack camp led to the American concept of “taking a vacation.” Durant created the new Adirondack style of architecture in his design of the Great Camps by expanding the proportions of a Swiss chalet to three stories and incorporating elements of early log cabins. His first Great Camp was Pine Knot, which he sold in 1895 to Collis P. Huntington, one of the famous Big Four, which included Leland Stanford, Charles Crocker and Mark Hopkins. He then built Camp Uncas, where guest and service buildings were separated by architectural style and location on the property. The guest buildings were covered by logs or bark and the service buildings were red board-and-batten structures. The camp was used as collateral on a loan to J.P. Morgan, who proceeded to take over the property. The third Great Camp that Durant built was Sagamore, which he moved into in 1897. At that time, the estate covered 1,526 acres and he spent $250,000 in creating this masterpiece, which included state-of-the-art amenities: gaslights fueled by compression chambers and pumps for gasoline, indoor plumbing (which Morgan did not have at Uncas) and hot and cold running water. Durant ran into serious financial problems and sold Sagamore to Alfred Vanderbilt for $162,500 in 1901.

Alfred Gwynne Vanderbilt was the great-grandson of Commodore Cornelius Vanderbilt. He had grown up in a 154-room mansion in New York City and spent his summers at the Breakers in Newport, Rhode Island. When Alfred’s father died in 1899, he became the wealthiest young man in America when he inherited the bulk of the family’s $80,000,000 fortune. He married his second wife, Margaret McKim, in 1901. They both loved outdoor sports, horses and traveling. They expanded Sagamore by adding a hydroelectric plant, underground power lines, tennis court, playhouse, bowling alley and dining hall. They had two sons, Alfred Gwynne, Jr. (b. 1912) and George Washington Vanderbilt (b. 1914). In 1915, Alfred was aboard the Lusitania on his way to Europe when a torpedo sank the ship. The official reason for Alfred traveling abroad was to attend business meetings of the coaching society, but there was speculation that he was on his way to see his true love, a woman by the name of Mrs. Ruiz, whom he had met while riding in Central Park.

Margaret married her third husband, Raymond T. Baker, who was head of the U.S. Mint, in 1918 and they had a daughter, Gloria Marie, who was called Mimi, in 1920. Mimi and the Gloria Vanderbilt of the famous jeans label were cousins. Alfred Jr., George and Mimi had a large playroom on the third floor of the main lodge. Today, it is a guest room and was right above my room. I heard another generation of young ones running around in that same space. When the children grew up, Margaret had cottages built for each of them. George’s cottage was originally the laundry and when I visited Sagamore, a grandmother, her daughter and granddaughter were staying in that cottage. Alfred’s and Gloria’s cottages were built lakeside and had identical floor plans. I would recommend staying in Gloria’s cottage because one side faces the lake and another faces the river. Margaret married Charles Minot Amory in 1929 and divorced him five years later. She was 50 years old and declared that she was finished with marriages. She legally reassumed her maiden name, Emerson, and the staff at Sagamore referred to her as “Mrs. E.” She continued to take her grandchildren to camp until after WWII. In 1950, a great portion of the surrounding forest was destroyed by a hurricane force windstorm and she could not bear to see the destruction. She gifted Sagamore to Syracuse Univeristy in 1954 and died of a heart attack in Manhattan in 1960.

Alfred's Cottage

Syracuse used Sagamore for 20 years but deferred necessary maintenance. When the costs were too high to restore the camp, the university logged the land, auctioned the furnishings and put the property up for sale. They made a deal with New York State to add the acreage to its park holdings, but it would have required the demolition of the buildings. At the last minute, the non-profit Sagamore Institute bought the camp’s bark-covered buildings for $100,000. In 1983, the Institute purchased a piece of land to trade into the forest preserve while the 10 acres of the workers’ complex were traded out. The organization now manages the 19-acre estate, which is a fraction of the original 1,526 acres. 

Upper Complex with Chalet on far right

Sagamore was built around the upstairs-downstairs concept. The guests occupied the lower complex by the lake and the workers were located at the upper complex, or caretaker’s village. When Durant lived at Sagamore, there were 40-45 workers on site. The hierarchy in the upper camp was the caretaker at the top, then the skilled workers and the unskilled workers on the bottom tier. The chalet is the former “men’s camp,” where the workers lived. The school house was the original men’s camp and occupied the same location as today’s chalet, but it was moved to its present place because it was not considered an attractive structure. Appearance was very important at Sagamore. The road to Camp Uncas, J.P. Morgan’s camp, passed by the upper complex of Sagamore and Vanderbilt relocated the school house and hen house in 1911 and built the chalet, which was a mirror image of the main lodge and blocked off the sight of the camp, so that his property would be more attractive as Morgan and his guests traveled by it. On the tour of the upper complex, I also viewed the carpenter’s shop, blacksmith’s shop, carriage house, barn, ice house, wood house and root cellar. Another example of the importance of appearance was the fact that automobiles were not allowed at camp. The guests had to arrive by horse and carriage and so their cars were parked in the carriage house. The experience of being in a remote location was an essential part of the camp experience for the Vanderbilts’ guests.



Upper Complex with Blacksmith's Shop, School House, Carriage House (from left to right)



The blacksmith’s shop was used for aesthetic purposes. Decorative ironwork was used on chandeliers, fire screens, andirons, door hinges and locks. Charles Dougherty and Jimmy Leffler were the two artisans who used copper and iron in the chandeliers in the main lodge and dining hall.



The Wigwam

I was intrigued by the Wigwam building. It was built in 1901 between the upper and lower complexes of Sagamore and faced the river. It did not have the serene ambiance of the main lodge. It felt more like a hunting cabin, even though it had nine bedrooms with connecting doors, and was isolated from the rest of the camp. Northern white cedar bark was applied as sheathing on the building to give the appearance of rusticity. Old growth cedar was used because the deeper grooves of the bark had a textured aesthetic and it was a water and infestation resistant wood. Tar paper was applied to the walls under the bark, which was then nailed to the building with small nails. The fireplace in the parlor was made of fieldstones and built to look as natural as possible. The stones were set in place with moss still on some of them and workers had to spray the moss to keep it green. A full basement was needed to support the weight of the fireplace. So, have you guessed what took place in the Wigwam? It was a party house for Alfred Vanderbilt and his male guests. Their female guests from the local community were escorted discreetly into the building through a back door. Today, large families stay in the Wigwam and enjoy its privacy.



The Wigwam's Parlor

The tour continued down the hill to the lower complex. On the way to the main lodge, we passed Alfred’s and Gloria’s cottages and the boathouse. The lawn in front of the lodge was the site of many croquet games. Margaret was an avid croquet player. Her wickets are still used on the lawn, but during Margaret’s era, the ball was larger and the mallet was between the size of the current mallet and the size of a polo mallet.

Main Lodge

Durant’s new architectural style of blending a Swiss chalet with a log cabin was best exemplified in the main lodge. The spruce logs on the outside of the building were used only as finishing touches to give the illusion of rusticity. The front door, which was directly below my room, could have been in a castle. The hinges and locks were substantial. I asked Jeff about the red color which was not only on the front door, but also on the window frames and other doors throughout the property. He said that it was referred to as “Durant red” and the paint, which was the same that was used on boxcars, was made from soil that contained iron ore particles. I also learned in my research that Margaret Vanderbilt’s favorite color was red. The interior of the main lodge was meant to evoke a small and cozy space. The cross-tapered beams on the ceiling of the parlor were full-length spruce trunks and Durant chose knotty pine paneling in an effort to convince the visitor that it was a log building. The guests would have used flushed toilets, which were considered a modern luxury in 1897. The main lodge originally consisted of five bedrooms for the owners and guests and the playroom on the third floor with a room for the nanny.

Lounge in Main Lodge

The Vanderbilts spent six weeks a year at Sagamore, four in August and two over Christmas. Margaret had the staff on 48-hour notice the rest of the year in case guests were sent up to camp. 

Exterior of Dining Hall

The original dining hall in 1897 was comprised of a porch, a hall with a fireplace and seating for 12-15 people at a log-based table. One of the chandeliers that was made by Dougherty hung overhead. When the Vanderbilts saw the space, they asked for the room to be doubled in size. But in 1924, Margaret invited 65 guests for Christmas dinner and another expansion that more than doubled the size of the hall was undertaken. It included the bay window with a circular table large enough to seat 12 guests. When I visited camp, I enjoyed having some of my meals in this area of the dining room. Margaret enjoyed formal entertaining. Cocktails were at the main lodge followed by dinner in the nearby dining hall and the dishes were served on silver platters by British liveried servants. The menus were written in French on cards that were printed with Sagamore scenes. China was designed for the camp with a pattern of spruce trees circling the gold-rimmed trim and manufactured by Higgens and Seiter. A Vanderbilt-era menu is framed in the Dining Hall today. Fish and game were usually served and after Margaret had been to Hawaii, she often included pineapple in many dishes.

Dining Hall

There were a number of notable guests over the years at Sagamore. Margaret brought together artists, writers, actors, musicians and statesmen. Gary Cooper, Howard Hughes, Richard Rodgers and General George Marshall all spent time at the camp. When Madame Chiang Kai-Chek visited, Margaret had to vacate her own camp because Madame Chiang brought 25 personal maids with her.

Playhouse

The social heart of the camp was the playhouse, which was built between the tennis court and bowling alley. It was a complement to the Wigwam, which was also built in 1901. It was the only building designed by a professional architect on the property and was originally called the casino. It had a roulette table, billiard table and ping pong table. A crocodile that Margaret shot in Africa was stuffed and used as a tray to hold the ping-pong balls. The fireplace was made of fieldstones and when it settled, it was so heavy that it started to pull the building down. It was reinforced with a support system underneath it.

Bowling Alley

The adjacent bowling alley was built in 1911 and represented Margaret’s love of sporting games. Bowling was considered a socially progressive game and in order to play it, you had to build your own bowling alley. The foundation was six feet thick in order to go below the frost line. The canvas shades can be rolled down during inclement weather. Of course it had to have a fireplace, too. The bowling alley is no longer used today, except for special demonstrations.

The tour ended and it was time for lunch. While other guests were planning to go hiking or fishing or just relax on the porch and read for the afternoon, I was anxious to get out on the lake and so after a quick sandwich, I changed into my shorts and walked over to the boathouse. After marking the time that I was leaving on the sign out sheet, I grabbed a paddle and pushed my orange kayak gently away from the dock. When I had paddled out to the middle of the lake, I floated for a while and absorbed the silence, privacy and stillness of the place. This sense of peace was and still is the essence of Sagamore.

Sagamore Lake

That evening after dinner, the guests gathered for a campfire and s’mores at the lean-to near the Wigwam. As I sat there on the bench by the fire, I listened to this contemporary group of Sagamorians discuss Durant and the Great Camps. One guest highly recommended a visit to the Adirondack Museum while I was in the area.

On Sunday morning, the bell rang at 8am for my final meal at camp. The guests were asked to vacate their rooms by 10am and to drop off their linens in the laundry room. It was tough to leave Sagamore and before I loaded the car, I took a quick run around the property for a last look. I had planned on taking an afternoon boat tour on Raquette Lake, but it was canceled and so I drove to Blue Mountain Lake to see the Adirondack Museum instead.

Blue Mountain Lake

I had three hours before I had to drive back to Albany and the time flew by at the museum. I started with a quick bite at the Lake View Café, which gave me a chance to orient myself with the property. The museum was vast, but the highlights were the Osprey boat, Sunset Cottage with beautiful mosaic twig work, private railcar and boating exhibition hall. In the gift shop, I picked up an 18” white cedar canoe that now sits on my coffee table at home. 

My re-entry into the modern era occurred as soon as I walked into the Albany train station and learned that my evening train to Penn Station was running 90 minutes late. But while I waited in the lobby of the station, I reflected on the weekend and looked forward to returning to Sagamore for the chance to step back into the Gilded Age once again.

Great Camp Sagamore

Raquette Lake, NY

http://www.greatcampsagamore.org/

tel: 1.315.354.5311

Open Memorial Day-Columbus Day

Guided tours are open to the public

Adirondack Museum

Blue Mountain Lake, NY

http://www.adirondackmuseum.org/